Single Malts

By Laurence Civil

Single Malt Scotch is the fastest growing sector in the beverage industry. But what makes it stand out from other whiskies? To be labelled a single malt scotch it must have been made at a single distillery in Scotland, exclusively from barley malt. Coming from a single distillery the taste characteristics of the region it is located in is going to affect the taste. When the master blender finds he has a cask of exceptional quality he may decide to bottle it as a single cask single malt, a unique expression of aroma and taste with each bottle individually numbered.

Scotland’s single malt region stretches for about 450kms which is subdivided into four regions, the Lowlands, the Highlands, Campbeltown and Islay; each having their own unique characteristic. The Lowlands produce a whisky where the softness of the malt is most evident. The Highlands is by far the biggest region and naturally is going to have their own characteristics. The western part tends to produce a whisky that has a rounded, firm dry character with some peat flavours. To the far north of the Highlands, their whiskies are noticeably heathery amid spicy characteristics due to local soil and coastal locations of the distilleries. On the contrary, the more sheltered East Highlands and the Midlands of Scotland produce more fruity whiskies.

None of these areas of the Highlands are regions in their own right whereas Speyside is a sub region of the Highlands, heartland of malt distillation and home to half of Scotland’s malt distilleries. Single Malts from Speyside are known for their elegance and complexity and often have a refined smokiness. They also have two extremes; the big, sherry character types such as ‘The Macallan’ and the lighter more subtle style. Within the Speyside region the River Livet is significant, so much so that some whiskies have borrowed its name, however, only one may call itself ‘The Glenlivet’. There are two more produced in the valley and another in the parish, these are examples of the more delicate single malts.

Once there were 30 distilleries in Campbeltown, today there are just two with a distinctive taste and a briny character. The Isle of Islay is just 25miles long, however, it is home to eight distilleries. The island’s peaty soil and its location on the west coast of Scotland are the reasons why it produces some of the boldest tasting malts.

The minimum maturation period for whisky by law is three years. Young malts such as a five-year one, still has that raw spirit taste possibly with an excess flavour of pear drops, bringing back memories of a favourite sweet at school in Britain. With maturity it gains the roundness, depth and length of finish. Generally speaking a lighter malt will mature faster; some develop quickly, level off and will then develop again. Each malt has its own life cycle; some are in good shape at eight others at ten or twelve years. The art is in the ability to identify when the single malt is at its best as once it is bottled it can no longer improve.

New oak casks would overwhelm a Scottish malt, that is why casks that have been previously used for sherry, port or bourbon are preferred. Sherry casks will give a richness, roundness and depth to a single malt. Initially filled American oak bourbon casks bring elements of honey and vanilla; while port casks bring elements of dark chocolate mint with a smooth velvet creamy texture. A majority of distilleries have a library of different generations of sherry and bourbon casks and will vary the ones they use for the optimum character of their single malt.

Distilling spirits at a higher alcoholic content makes for a more pleasant drink. The law requires that Scotch whisky be distilled at less than 94.8%, although in practice most malts come of the still at 60-75%. Single malts sold at cask strength range from just below 60 to slightly over 50. Whiskies at this strength even with a dash of water will retain more power and texture than at standard strength. Most single malts are diluted with water and bottled plus sold in the range of 40-43%.

Single malts were made to be sniffed, sipped and savoured so it is best done sitting in a comfortable chair. Likewise the room should be at a comfortable temperature with relaxing, soothing music such as jazz. The glass that it is drunk from does make a difference plus the aromas sensation is one of the key pleasures of a single malt, the ideal is a tulip shaped glass that concentrates the aromas at the top of the glass. A heavy straight sided tumbler may be traditional, however, these are best to disguise the awful smell of an inferior whiskey, so no tumblers. Adding ice to a single malt will take away three quarters of the essential fragrance we are searching for, if ice has to be added question the water it is made from, when it melts will it alter the taste? Adding pure mineral water (still only, absolutely no bubbles) a few drops at a time do help to release the aromas, however, with each drop the taste is diluted so splash with moderation. Now sit back, relax and enjoy this gift God made in the Highlands of Scotland.

The Macallan

The Macallan is one of the most widely respected single malts. Accolades include "There is no malt whiskey more widely acknowledged than The Macallan" said Michael Jackson, author of Malt Whisky Companion; "The single malt against which all others must be judged " commented Gordon Brown, Wine & Spirit Magazine while The Los Angeles Times described it as “The Chateau Margaux of malts".

The key characteristics of The Macallan are sherry aging and consistency resulting in its rich colour, aroma and flavour with hints of dried fruits, spice and chocolate orange.

The Macallan is a fine example of the contribution sherry casks bring to this big flavoured single malt. Using selected sherry casks from Jerez, Spain made with European oak that has a tannin rich wood delivers full bodied and intense flavours.

As the single malt evolves in the barrel it makes lifecycle statements at the key specifc ages of 10, 12 and 15 years. An interesting factor in tasting single malts is how they evolve and to compare their different characters at dissimilar ages. Let us start by looking at the characteristics of the Sherry Oak 10 year-old. In the glass we noticed a pale gold colour, on the nose we can detect hints of sweet toffee balanced with dried fruits and sherry. Having taken a sip in the mouth we discover a smooth taste with dried fruits, sherry sweetness and wood smoke. Then in the finish there are dried fruits with sweet toffee and a hint of wood spice.

When we moved onto the Sherry Oak 12 year-old we noticed that in the glass it showed us a rich gold colour, due to the additional two years in the barrel. On the nose we detected vanilla with a hint of ginger, dried fruits, sherry sweetness and wood smoke. Then as we took a sip in the mouth it was deliciously smooth; rich dried fruits and sherry balanced with wood smoke and spice. Having swallowed, in the finish there were elements of sweet toffee and dried fruits with wood smoke and spice.

Moving up to the Sherry Oak 18 year-old, in the glass we discovered that the colour had progressed to a light mahogany. On the nose the dried fruits and ginger of the earlier two still remains, however, now they were being complemented with a hint of citrus, vanilla and cinnamon. Having taken a sip in the mouth, the rich dried fruits with spice and wood smoke remained constant but at this age we were also picking up hints of clove and orange. The finish had now evolved to be full and lingering with the same dried fruits, sweet toffee, and a hint of wood smoke amid an added hint of ginger.

The Glenlivet

The Glenlivet is Scotland’s oldest distillery founded in 1824, the year that distilling whisky was legalized. Located in the River Livet valley or Glen it is the distillery with the legal right to use the name. This is a fine example of a subtle flavoured Speyside single malt and globally is the third largest single malt brand. As a stamp of authority to the quality of the brand, at the 2008 International Wine and Spirit Competition (IWSC) with an award for every expression in the permanent, The Glenlivet range was recognise. Here in Thailand the 12, 15 and 18 year-olds are the most popular, each of them having been awarded silver medals at IWSC, so we were curious to discover how the character progresses with age.

Starting with The Glenlivet 12 in the glass, we discovered a bright lively gold colour. Taking a sniff without water there are summer-like fragrances interwoven with floral and fruity aromas. Then when we added a splash of water, the aromas changed bringing forward a fruity sweetness and oak tannins. In the mouth without water the taste is silky smooth with flavours of freshly picked summer fruits. A splash of water expands the honeyed floral notes while toning down the spiciness resulting in a minty maltiness. The finish has elements of spice, fresh hazelnuts and freshly grated ginger.

Moving onto The Glenlivet 15 we discovered in the glass a colour that had the intensity of late afternoon summer sunshine. On the nose without water, the aromas are creamy and rich with the fragrance of resin swirling up from the glass before melting into that of a citrus fruit salad amid hints of lightly toasted pine nuts, orange peel and candied grapefruit; a touch floral. When we added a splash of water the bouquet opens on buttery notes, shortbread, almond brandy snaps and vanilla. Lurking in the background there is a touch of spiciness and liquorice. When we added a splash of water we noticed the awakening of a nutty oakiness, blancmange for dessert and wood drying in the sun. On the palate without water the taste is rounded, sweet and velvety smooth with sweet enveloping fruit and nutty flavours plus a lingering reminder of luscious chocolate and fudge. Adding a splash of water seemed to unwind the balance, releasing more spice to the taste and imparting additional oaky aromas but with all the rough edges cut off. This is the perfect dram for those with a sweet tooth to enjoy after dinner.

On the other hand, The Glenlivet 18 year-old in the glass is the colour of old gold with apricot hues. On the nose without water there is a fragrant elegance, complex with sweet oakiness; a splash of water changes the aromas to be creamier with a hint of crème brulee or warm apple pie. In the mouth without water it is smooth and velvety, a splash of water makes it sweeter and rounds off the oaky edges. The oak and ginger finish has a hint of distant smoke plus there is distinct sherry influence; the perfect after dinner dram to sip in front of the fire on a cold frosty night.

Other Single Malts we have Tasted

During our visits to the various bars, we tried a selection of other single malt whiskies and here is a selection that pleased our taste buds.

Singleton 10 year-old

This single malt comes from Auchroisk Distillery where the water source, Dorie's Well has been described as an undeniably sweet, crystal-clear water with an abundant source of soft, pure spring water that has a silky feel.
In the glass there is a medium amber colour whereas on the nose there is a full aroma with a hint of sherry amid traces of peat, heather, fruit, and smoke being present. In the mouth is a medium taste with honeyed sweetness, fruit and some sherry. The finish is medium to long with some smoke elements.

The Balvenie 12 year-old

The Balvenie is made at Mortlake, Dufftown in Speyside and is owned by William Grant. The Balvenie Signature 12 year-old is a skillful marriage of three casks; first filled and refilled bourbon casks and sherry butts. On the nose it is complex with elements of honey, citrus fruits and vanilla oak notes. Then in the mouth there are rich honeyed sweet tastes with a hint of sherry fruitiness. A cinnamon and nutmeg spiciness plus a subtle oakiness can be found with time. The finish is comfortingly warm.

Glenmorangie Lasanta

Glenmorangie have been distilling whiskey at Tarlogie Springs in Ross-shire since 1843. Lasanta is one of three new expressions of their single malt. After maturing for ten years in bourbon casks it enjoys an extra two years in Spanish Oloroso sherry casks resulting in a luscious, soft mouth filling texture with deep, enticing, sweet aromas. On the nose are aromas of chocolate covered raisins, honeycomb and smooth caramel toffee. After a splash of water, tones of juicy dates and caramelised apricots emerge. In the mouth there is a full, sweet flavour that is typical of Spanish sherry with sultanas, orange segments, walnuts and butter toffee. The finish is satisfyingly long with notes of spiced orange and chocolate covered hazelnuts.